Oil? What Brand do you use?

**AlumaDoo** · 02-27-2010, 03:52 PM

OK, I've enjoyed my fair share of crow from my original reply earlier in this thread. Normally this topic sparks a bunch of garbage, but so far I see some reputable guys chiming in with some logical, knowledgeable replies. I'm still running the XPS synthetic blend in my ETEC, but that's because that's what DOO recommends. I like the low usage and low smoke though too. I feel like I need to stick to it at least until the warranty runs out. Then, we'll see.

**Maize** · 02-27-2010, 04:08 PM

Originally Posted by spanky

OK, I've enjoyed my fair share of crow from my original reply earlier in this thread. Normally this topic sparks a bunch of garbage, but so far I see some reputable guys chiming in with some logical, knowledgeable replies. I'm still running the XPS synthetic blend in my ETEC, but that's because that's what DOO recommends. I like the low usage and low smoke though too. I feel like I need to stick to it at least until the warranty runs out. Then, we'll see.

Definately stick with what your warranty requires.

When chosing an oil, you need to check the flow characteristics of that oil. That, to me, is the single most important thing in a snowmobile oil. It needs to flow well at below zero.

**XCR440** · 02-27-2010, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by Maize

We agree on this point. Synthetic oils (in both our opinions) are a farce for snowmobile.

I don't know about it being a farce. Way, WAAAAY back in the day when my dad switched to the AmsOil Synthetic product when it came out in the early 70's, there was a significant difference in combustion chamber cleanliness, if I can use that word to describe it.

In his 1973 TX 500 Limited, it was visibly obvious how much better it was in how the inside of the motor looked after a seasons worth of riding (1500-2000 miles). Yes, my dad tore it down every year to go through it and clean it, but not after the first season he started using the AmsOil Synthetic. Much MUCH cleaner, no carbon build up at all worth mentioning. Maybe the 100:1 mix ratio had something to do with it, my dad would mix it right to that every time. 6 gallons of gas to that 1 little bottle of oil. I couldn't tell you what my sled today is exactly, but I'm sure its not that high of a ratio.

And to your 3hp improvement (I assume your talking about with the synthetic oil) I completely agree, and on a 60hp machine (Maybe it was 70hp, don't remember exactly now) that's an even larger % increase than on todays 100+hp sleds.

Internal bearing wear is something else to consider, if you plan on running it 10k+. Better lube, less wear.

Not trying to "argue", just stating the facts that I saw growing up with that synthetic oil compared to the "dinosaur oil" that he used to run. Today's sleds may have completely different characteristics, but they are still 2-strokes.

**Maize** · 02-27-2010, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by XCR440

I don't know about it being a farce. Way, WAAAAY back in the day when my dad switched to the AmsOil Synthetic product when it came out in the early 70's, there was a significant difference in combustion chamber cleanliness, if I can use that word to describe it.

In his 1973 TX 500 Limited, it was visibly obvious how much better it was in how the inside of the motor looked after a seasons worth of riding (1500-2000 miles). Yes, my dad tore it down every year to go through it and clean it, but not after the first season he started using the AmsOil Synthetic. Much MUCH cleaner, no carbon build up at all worth mentioning. Maybe the 100:1 mix ratio had something to do with it, my dad would mix it right to that every time. 6 gallons of gas to that 1 little bottle of oil. I couldn't tell you what my sled today is exactly, but I'm sure its not that high of a ratio.

And to your 3hp improvement (I assume your talking about with the synthetic oil) I completely agree, and on a 60hp machine (Maybe it was 70hp, don't remember exactly now) that's an even larger % increase than on todays 100+hp sleds.

Internal bearing wear is something else to consider, if you plan on running it 10k+. Better lube, less wear.

Not trying to "argue", just stating the facts that I saw growing up with that synthetic oil compared to the "dinosaur oil" that he used to run. Today's sleds may have completely different characteristics, but they are still 2-strokes.

I would agree with the fact that minereal oil back then was bad and that synthetic oil was probably better. The reason being: Older 2-stroke oils back then had no detergents for cleaning.

Today's oil has many more detergents for cleaning. Today mineral oil is not the same blend as it was even 10 years ago. With today's EPA standards, even the mineral oil has more detergents to keep the motor clean and the environment cleaner.

The biggest reason that manufacturers want you to use synthetics is purely EPA regulations. There isn't any better lubricaton properties, but the blend is such that it lowers emissions. Which, if you want to help with that and spend twice the money, then that is good. But it isn't because the oil is better for the engine.

With the new E-Tech motors, it wouldn't be a big deal as the oil goes about 3 times longer than a non-E-Tech motor.

Out of all the oils on market, I have not heard of an oil break down related failure in any motor. Nor have I worked on a motor that has oil related failures. Burn downs, cold seizure, bad bearings from lack of Isoflex. Yes.

As a matter of maint, I clean my RAVE's at the end of every season and fog the motors for the summer on the wife's sled. If I keep the sleds in the garage, I start them each month. But this year, they will be in storage with fogging oil done.

In the fall, I clean the carbs, pull both clutches apart and go through them, drain the old gas out and put fresh gas in the tank.

Maybe I am a little more anal about maint, but they are in a harsh environment.

**PAULARIS600** · 02-28-2010, 04:21 AM

Originally Posted by Dirty Birch

I am beginning to believe that oil maybe the single biggest fleecing of all in this sport. I have been gouged on Polaris parts before, like when I broke the "plastic" idle adjustment screw on one of the carbs and was charged over $15 for a friggin 1-1/4" plastic screw!!!

Now Polaris gets over $40 a gallon for oil!!! WTF? That's $10 worth of oil for every tank of gas we use!!!

I have a question, "Which oil smells the best coming out of the pipe?" If I am going to have to pay that kind of money it might as well smell pretty coming out of my exhaust!

40 bucks Mark- i am getting it for just under 30 bucks.
run what the warranty says-ves gold
plastic screw-probably feels better than steel one.

**Dirty Birch** · 02-28-2010, 06:45 AM

I believe Polaris is replacing VES Gold with VES Gold Plus which up here comes to over $42 per gallon with tax. Since I have never own a sled new enough to still be under warranty I'm making the switch to Sea and Snow. Whatever happens...Happens! I feel after reading numerous boards and threads on the subject that I will be just fine with my decision.

I'm surprised Polaris doesn't put the word Gold at the end of every product and part they sell, like the way they do with their oil, since they charge like everything they have is Gold!

"Proud rider of a Polaris SwitchBack GOLD and and a Polaris RMK Gold"

**Maize** · 02-28-2010, 10:13 AM

Originally Posted by Dirty Birch

I believe Polaris is replacing VES Gold with VES Gold Plus which up here comes to over $42 per gallon with tax. Since I have never own a sled new enough to still be under warranty I'm making the switch to Sea and Snow. Whatever happens...Happens! I feel after reading numerous boards and threads on the subject that I will be just fine with my decision.

I'm surprised Polaris doesn't put the word Gold at the end of every product and part they sell, like the way they do with their oil, since they charge like everything they have is Gold!

"Proud rider of a Polaris SwitchBack GOLD and and a Polaris RMK Gold"

I have heard a lot of people going to Sea and Snow. The only draw I have with it is I don't carry oil onboard, (I probably should) and it is hard to find at convience stations.

**AlumaDoo** · 02-28-2010, 11:10 AM

I used Sea-n-Snow in all 3 of our 2 stroke Doo's before selling them last fall. Never had an issue, and the RAVEs were pretty darn clean at the end of the season. If I hadn't switched to the new ETEC, I'd still be burning it. May go back to it once the ETEC's warranty expires too. Good stuff for me, and readily available at Farm and Fleet.

**slideways** · 03-01-2010, 02:16 PM

Granted the factory oils are a bit more pricey, but one way to save a little is to buy in bulk. Ski Doo mineral oil where I get it is about $27 a gallon if you buy individual jugs. I bring in a pair of 2 1/2 gallon jugs and can get both filled for about $95. It breaks down to about $18 per gallon plus tax. Not as cheap as Sea & Snow, but saves me from buying 45 dollars worth of plastic jugs!

**YamaDooed** · 03-04-2010, 05:17 AM

Originally Posted by snohawk

Has anyone used Sea & Snow in a Mercury Outboard ?
Have a 175 hp oil injected and it's the same thing with the price on the Quicksilver oil.

Sea and Snow doesn't have the TCWIII rating you need for the Merc... Main thing to look at for oils is ratings and specs along with the weights for you 4 strokers...